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JIM'S NORTH AND CENTRAL AMERICAN
BIKE TOUR
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Departure Date: October 1st, 2002
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Jim departs from DC fully loaded and ready
to take on the road but doesn't realize that mother nature's got a
few lashings to dish out... |
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Week 1: Mother Nature Displays her Wrath
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After relaxing with a drink and some grub just outside
of DC, in Front Royal, Jim embarked on what would be the most rainy
riding he'd ever seen. He took the Blue Ridge Parkway down into North
Carolina encountering rain at almost every turn. From there he crossed
through Tennessee, Mississippi, Louisiana and finished up his US leg
in Texas. Intending to camp most of the way, he was forced to grab
a motel or two along the way as Hurricane Lilly forced him indoors.
As he completed week one he prepared to enter Mexico... |

Week 2: Mexico shows Jim the worst rains in 7 years
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October 16th... "Well its day 15 or 16 and here
is my schedule so far. Rain, rain almost every day, but most of
it has been at night. The first day I crossed the border it came
down, the worst in 7 years. I was riding in 20 inches of water and
the bike was doing well until a 3 ft. wave from a truck hit me.
Needless to say the bike died and I had to spend the night. I took
my boots off and turned them upside down to empty out half a gallon
of water. Cleaned the plugs and dried out the air filter and was
ready to go. The next day I stopped in Victoria for lunch then stayed
the night in Cuidad Mante. Continued on to Tampico, helmetless and
was stopped by the federales and had to bribe him with 170 pesos,
then went into the bustling city and had a corona for 7 pesos. On
to Tuxpan, then a little town calle Tecolutla for a two day stay
by the beach. Saw the ruines of el Tajin, a Toltonac civilzation.
the last couple of days I stayed in another beach town called Chachalacas
checked out the ruines of Zempeola plus some hot springs. Unfortunately
it had just rained so the dirt road was a mud road. The bike fully
loaded did not hold up... wipe out. Luckly a couple of campesinos
came by in a pick-up and helped me get it up. I was a bit muddy
and the bike was alright. Tonight I will be staying in Tlacoltanpan
and we will see about tommorow."
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Week 3: Enjoying the mountain roads(if you can call them that)
of Mexico
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October 18th... "Yesterday I started
across the mountains of "Sierra Madre de Oaxaca" and , jesus christ
what a fucked up road. 200 miles to cross them and it took me 9, thats
right nine hours to get to the city of Oaxaca. The first part was
dirt road up the mountain, curves all the way. 1st gear for the first
hour until I got to where I almost ran into the construction crew
paving the road. For a while it was pretty good, I actually got it
into 3rd gear a few times. At times it got pretty bad, pieces of road
had actually fallen off the mountain. I was averaging about 25mph,
altitudes of over 3000 meters. Froze my ass off and when i got up
into the clouds every thing got wet. Now that I'm in this nice traditional
town I think i'll rest for a few days, check out the ruins of "Monte
Alban" and some incredible churches ......I'm staying at the magic
hostel for 60 pesos, nice rooms. Last night I shared the room with
a couple from Germany and two girls from Italy. It has a common area
with books, chairs and coaches, lots of plants, showers with hot water
and girls from all over the world staying a night or two. Well, thats
all for now, next leg is to Puerto Escondido, then Puerto Angel where
one of the the Americans that just left is staying for 2 months..."
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Week 4: Picked up a passenger
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Just before arriving in the high mountain town of Oaxaca, Jim saw
a helpless, lonely, 4 week old puppy abandoned next to a roadside
shop. He was told that 10 minites prior the dog had been abandoned
by it's owners. The shop keep was unable to take the pup and Jim
just couldn't leave him, so he tucked the pup in his jacket and
made for the nearest vet. It's been several days now and the pup
seems to be pretty comfy cruising in the tank bag.
October 21st... "I've seen the Pacific and it looks
great. Puerto Escondido, is not so escondido.They're starting to
develop this place pretty quickly but it is still pretty laid back.
I'm staying at Solemon hostel for 50 pesos and the place is pretty
empty so I have a room all to myself...I'm just gonna hang out at
the beach now, it was another rough ride today. These mountain roads
are pretty treacherous."
It's been over a week now and Jim still hasn't left. With this
unexpected paradise pit stop he will certainly have to modify his
itinerary. With this kind of splender though, you can hardly blame
him. In his first week there he coincidently ran into a long time
regular of Asylum, Alejandra who was in town shooting a special
for National Geographic. He met up with her and her film crew later
that day at "one of the most beautiful beaches, small, secluded
and some pretty good snorkleing."
October 23..."When I showed up, they were enjoying their
first day off with a cooler of beers and some pollito. I set up
my hammock and joined them. After an hour or so the beer was gone
but no problem since there was a couple of vendors under their palapas
ready to sell you a cold one. Then I took Angelito into the water
and realized his eyes are the same color as the water. When I came
out the crew had switched from coronas to coco locos, fresh coconuts
filled with margaritas, mine was the largest coconut I'd ever seen.
This thing was so huge you had to use both hands to pick it up.
After the munchies kicked in we ordered up some oysters from a local
sitting on some rocks by the ocean. He cracked open the live oysters
and served them ulp with limes and hot sauce, que rico! After a
cool shower I met up with the crew and had a great dinnner, margaritas
and polished it all off with some local mezcal. What a day, these
guys treated me to the best ime I 've had yet...have a shot of Monte
Alban(mezcal) for me..."
October 25th..."well I haven't left yet and tomorrow Kenneth,
from DC, invited me to stay in his house on 7 acres, overlooking
the ocean so we can enjoy the finest that Mexico has to offer."
October 28th..."this guy Kenny, from DC, turned out to
be a real nice guy. He's got this house next to the light house
over Puerto Escondido, that he's watching for anohter DC lawyer.
Mango's, bananas, limes, coconuts, oranges, grapefriut trees and
some corn surround the property.. I could live off the land easy
here. The first day I got here I could see a bit of the ocean but
the place was overgrown, unkept for a couple of years. Within an
hour I started hacking away with a machete and had a cleared a good
section around this big old tree. Wow! That's more like it. Yesterday
I picked up some pruning sheers, gloves, a sharpening stone and
a lock for the large wooden gate, which he paid me for cuz he felt
bad that I was doing all this work for free. Hell, he's letting
me stay on this huge property with best view in Esconcdido for free.
So the rest of the day I pruned back all the bushes and planted
a palm tree that I split off the larger one. It has a few more babies,
so today I'll plant a couple more."
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Week 5: Still basking in the splender that is Puerto Escondido
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November 1st..."Still here but
will definitely be heading to Chiapas soon. For now I'm just in awe
at the beauty of this place."
November 3rd..."just another lazy day, up until last night
the neighbors were playing their music and shooitng off their polbora(fireworks).
Last night was different, the day of the dead had arrived...no fireworks,
no music. It was eerie how quiet it was, until the winds started
blowing. I went out to sit under the tree and watch the storm roll
in. About half an hour past and the winds were so strong it was
blowing limbs off the trees, even blew ceramic off the wall and
knocked over a vase...the dead had arrived. I finally had to come
in, but Angelito was loving it and preferred to stay out. By the
time it was over, the place was a mess, time to clean up. Tonight
I move into the guest room, now that the brits have left. I slept
on the hammock for the last week and woke up to see the sun rise
over the bay every morning."
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Week 6: How can I make this permanent?
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After having put on the brakes, 3 weeks ago, in Puerto Escondido
Jim is now trying to figure out how he can make this permanent.....keep
brainstorming Jim, you've got my support!
November 10..."I've been checking out prices on property
and it's not bad for a lot right off Caricalillo, enough for a
good size house. I would still like to see if by some miracle
I could somehow get the place where I'm at. We'll see, maybe if
I wish hard enough things will happen."
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Week 7: "...I'm leaving today!"
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November 20..."I am leaving today! I'll be heading out
around mid day with some girls that I've met. they want to go about
two hours south from Puerto to do a little camping. I figured if
I don't leave now I never will. I'll start sending pictures on a
regular basis, but I can only send 3 at a time. The first few days
in Puerto I stayed at the Shalom hostal as you recall, about three
or four weeks ago. The first picture is of Mariana and Kigel, so
you can see it was hard to leave there. There is actually a place
called Puerto Angelito in Puerto Escondido. This was taken about
4 weeks ago, so he's doubled in size. The last picture was taken
off of Zipolite beach, which is where the best surfing is at. I
believe the surfing contest is this weekend, but I'll have to miss
it. hope everything is well..."
November 23..."Well, it took a while but I'm now in Chiapas,
in a town called Citalapa. I'll be leaving shortly for San Cristobal
de las Casas in a bit and from there it's just a few days to Merida.
Mom keeps worrying about getting angelito on the ferry....maybe
you can drop her a line and tell her to stop worrying. One thing
I didn't take off the other bike was the chain and this one has
just about had it. Yesterday I stayed at this beach called "Bajo
de la Cruz" and it was very isolated with a fresh water lagoon so
you can rinse off after a swim in the ocean. No electricity or running
water, but we made do. I was there with my friend Julia from Canada,
Cynthia from Colombia, Felipe from from France and a gringo. The
road was dirt with a lot of run offs from the rainy season, definitely
the worst so far. I went down once, but no harm to the bike and
a few scrapes and bruises. Well, from now on I have to stick to
paved roads cuz I don't think this chain can hold up much more,
there are cracks in a least four of the links, so wish me luck..."
November 28..."I am now in Merida. Today I will be going
to the U.S. Consulate to report my stolen passport, find another
place to stay, since we are being kicked out of this hostal and
find out how I can get Angelito on the boat. Should be a productive
day. The ferry leaves Sunday at midnight so I have time to check
out another ruin or two. Hope you all have a good Thanksgiving and
hold down the fort, re-enforcments are on the way, so plan your
two months bro, cause I want to get back here as soon as possible....Jimmy"
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Week 8: ...Farwell Mexico
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"Today is Sunday and I'll be leaving this evening on the
ferry for Tampa. Merida has been nice but as with all major cities
there is a lot of traffic and the cars and busses don't respect
motorbikes. Luckily my D.C. riding experience kicks in and you just
stay aware and try to get to the front of the pack so when the light
turns green you leave them in the dust. A lot of ruins in Yucatan,
I would need a month to see them all. Yesterday I went to see Uxmal,
one of the bigger Mayan cities. For an ancient civilization, they
built an incredible city with aqueduct systems and some very unique
pyramids. Next year I hope to come back the same way, via the ferry,
and go down the coast to do some diving. The ferry runs till mid
April, then goes back to Nova Scotia for the summer. Prices seem
pretty good, about $100 one-way for me and $125 for the bike. Well
time to pack and say good by to Mexico, or at least asta luego,
cause I will be back.
See you soon,
Jimmy"
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